Perched along the eastern shore of Baja California Sur, Loreto stands out as the sole location on the planet where visitors can witness blue whales in warm coastal waters. These majestic creatures, which can grow up to 30 meters long—making them the largest animals to have ever existed—remain elusive and difficult to spot. I journeyed to Loreto with the intention of observing these magnificent whales, but I discovered far more in this captivating town, rich with history and surrounded by breathtaking beauty that enchants all who venture off the beaten path.
Recognized as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos (magical towns), Loreto has preserved its quaint charm and renowned relaxed pace of life. The locals embrace their unofficial motto: “Loreto, donde el sol no tiene prisa” (Loreto, where the sun takes its time).
In 1940, author John Steinbeck remarked that “Loreto was asleep in the sunshine, a lovely town, with gardens in every yard and only the streets white and hot.” Remarkably, little has altered in the past eighty years. The village square, lined with palm trees and bougainvilleas, serves as the heart of the community. Just around the corner, Mission Loreto stands proudly, originally established in 1697—making it California’s oldest mission. The current structure was completed in the mid-18th century and still chimes its bells twice daily. A brief five-minute walk from the square leads you to the Malecon, the paved promenade that runs alongside Loreto Bay National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site hosts nearly a third of the globe’s marine mammal species, along with hundreds of bird and fish varieties.
What to See in Loreto
Whales and the Blue-Footed Booby
The renowned French explorer Jacques Cousteau once referred to the Gulf of California as “the world’s aquarium.” No visit to Loreto would be complete without immersing yourself in this vibrant ecosystem. Whale enthusiasts should reserve a boat tour to enhance their chances of spotting these magnificent creatures. From January to March, during peak season, you’re highly likely to encounter one of the eleven whale species that frequent the Gulf, including blue whales, gray whales, fin whales, humpback whales, sperm whales, orcas, and various dolphins and porpoises. (If you venture further north to the upper reaches of the Gulf, you might catch a glimpse of the vaquita, the world’s smallest and most endangered cetacean, of which only about ten individuals remain.)
Canyon les Parras (Canyon of the Vines)
While Loreto is famous for its coastal offerings, the interior Sonoran desert of this narrow peninsula is equally stunning. This semi-arid landscape is dotted with towering cardón cacti and verdant shrubbery. Canyon les Parras presents a mild and immersive hike through a dramatic gorge named after wild grapes. The rugged cliffs are draped in lush vegetation, including agave, arrow trees, bow trees, palms, palo verde, rock figs (a wild fig endemic to Baja California), and even wild pumpkins. This diverse flora supports an array of wildlife, from coyotes and bobcats to white-tailed deer and the charming desert bighorn sheep. While these creatures tend to avoid humans, you’re likely to encounter wild horses, donkeys, and mules traversing the desert, as I did. The sight of the oasis at the hike’s end is as refreshing as it would have been for travelers of centuries past.
What to Eat in Loreto
Though Loreto is a well-visited destination, it has maintained its authenticity—meaning you won’t find American-style vegan alternatives and tofu on every corner. However, Veganautas Smoothie-Bar offers a rare and excellent option for those craving a taste of home: this vegan smoothie and juice bar utilizes stainless steel straws and minimizes its environmental impact. Adjacent to it, the sister restaurant Vegasaurio Cocina Vegana serves up vegan burgers, pancakes, sandwiches, and burritos for breakfast or lunch.
