Curls and heat are not a great combination. Tools like flat irons, curling wands, and overusing blow dryers can lead to lasting damage. While straightening curly hair may be an exciting change, it does come with consequences. In this article, I’ll explore the effects of heat on curly hair, how it impacts hair strands, and how you can protect your locks from heat damage.
What Leads to Heat Damage
Heat damage can result from several factors, including using excessively high temperatures, applying heat too frequently, holding heat on one section of hair for too long, or neglecting to use a heat protectant.
As Rolanda Johnson Wilkerson, Ph.D., a senior beauty scientist at Procter & Gamble, explains, “When too much heat is applied to hair, it breaks the hair’s bonds in the same way chemical relaxers do, and these bonds cannot be restored.” While occasional heat use with proper precautions might not cause significant harm, repeated exposure can destroy natural curl patterns and cause severe breakage by damaging the hair’s structure.
JC, a material science expert with a BSc and PhD, writes on her blog, The Natural Haven, that “High heat causes permanent, physical changes to your hair at the molecular level. Heat that is too high or used for extended periods alters the natural structure of the hair protein, irreversibly.”
She elaborates, “Hair is composed of a protein called keratin, which has a natural twist known as an alpha helix. This twist exists in all hair types, whether straight or curly. When keratin is heated to around 419°-455°F, the alpha helix begins to melt. This change is permanent, and the hair will retain the new shape of the melted keratin at a molecular level.”
JC further explains that the damage becomes visible when your hair no longer returns to its natural curl or wave, staying straight instead. “All hair damage is cumulative,” she notes. “Since there are no living cells in the hair shaft, once the cuticle is damaged, it remains damaged. If the cortex is harmed by heat, that damage is also permanent. While conditioners and gentle care may extend the life of damaged hair, the damage will inevitably worsen over time.”
How to Safeguard Your Hair from Heat Damage
If you must use heat, here are some tips to help minimize the damage:
– Keep your styling tools below 400°F.
– Always apply a thermal protectant before heat styling. Popular choices include Briogeo Farewell Frizz Blow Dry Cream, Living Proof Restore Perfecting Spray, and Mielle Mongongo Oil Thermal & Heat Protectant Spray.
– After heat styling, use an intense protein treatment during your next wash to repair any tears or splits in the hair cuticle. Follow it up with a moisturizing treatment. Recommended protein treatments include Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment and OUIDAD Advanced Climate Control Frizz-Fighting Hydrating Mask.
– Hydrate your hair! Since heat depletes moisture, deep conditioning is crucial. Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment is highly moisturizing and can restore hydration to dry, damaged hair.
In conclusion, applying any heat to your hair will result in some level of damage, but frequent heat use can permanently alter your curl pattern. Each curly-haired individual must decide how much risk they’re willing to take when it comes to straightening their curls.
